1 Sallyport, Berwick-upon-Tweed

A beautiful hotel with a warm welcome

As soon as I entered this six-room boutique hotel, just inside Berwick’s 16th-century city walls overlooking the Tweed estuary, I liked it.

To the left were cream leather booths with funny little Union Jack cushions next to a fireplace with large bunches of flowers in vases and a picture book of L. S. Sandstell’s work (he painted many Berwick scenes) on the mantelpiece.

To the right was a mini version of a grand piano with a book of recipes by Marcus Wareing (of Berkeley Hotel in London fame) propped on top. Bright modern art adorned the walls and gentle country music played on a stereo.

Straight ahead, a couple of paces from the door, there was a bar, with wine racks and shiny beer pumps. The bar counter was filled with an eclectic mix of slices of coconut cake, scones, bowls of oranges and great jars filled with pickled onions. As I stepped forward, Elizabeth Middlemiss, the charming owner of 1 Sallyport (named after its address), appeared from a side door. She was tall, blonde and smiley. “Have a coffee on me!” she said brightly.

What a nice setting. What a friendly welcome.

My room, the Pedwell, was very good value (£95 B&B) for a huge space divided in two by an archway. In the first part of the room there was a large squashy leather sofa with throw cushions, a big coffee table, a giant flatscreen TV and a DVD player. An interesting oil painting showed a group of men in flat caps watching a football match; next to it was a lovely pastel-blue seascape.

Beyond the arch there was a large sleigh-style bed, with sheets and pillows with the embroidered words: “Sweet dreams, Sleepyhead, Float away.” There was stylish carnation pattern wallpaper in an alcove, a Bose CD player and a bookshelf with sports biographies and two Harry Potter books. Through an adjoining door, the bathroom had underfloor heating and an invigorating power shower.

It was incredibly tastefully decorated, well thought out and comfortable. A lot of hoteliers with big reputations (and matching egos) should come to 1 Sallyport to learn a thing or two.

I went for a walk around Berwick’s windy ramparts (it takes about half an hour), stopping at signs to compare the view today with how Sandstell saw things. Back at 1 Sallyport I sat at one of the cream leather booths and ate fishcakes followed by Hungarian goulash, listening to Love is a Burning Thing by Johnny Cash.

Both dishes were decent, reasonably priced (£17), and the service quick and friendly. As I had coffee, Elizabeth came over, not knowing I was a reviewer, and told me that she had been a victim of nasty reports on TripAdvisor from people who appeared not to have stayed at her hotel. She seemed genuinely upset. Well, I hope this report sets things straight: 1 Sallyport is a fabulous place to stay.